In a dry Pacific Northwest summer, watering wisely starts in May

Maritime Northwestern weather patterns can puzzle (and irritate) folks from elsewhere. Why are summer mornings so cold and grey? Coastal areas often experience ‘marine layer’ mornings, because cool night air creates clouds or fog, which generally evaporate by midday. To make things more confusing, we also have an alternating El Nino/La Nina weather pattern. We’re currently in the ENSO (El Nino-Southern Oscillation) state, where neither El Nino nor La Nina are dominant. Odds are this will be a warmer, dryer summer than usual, so watering wisely is already important.

The good news is that it's definitely warm enough now for beans, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and corn. June night temps are predicted to stay in the mid- to high-50s all month, keeping our heat loving veggies happy. July and August are similarly predicted to be warm (70s and 80s) and mostly sunny. However, an especially dry summer means watering will be vital for your garden.

There are many ways to water, but when we water matters too. However you do it, morning watering keeps plants well hydrated before hot sun hits. Afternoon watering can cause leaf burn on sunny days, and evening watering can promote foliage molds and mildews. That said, it's better to water when you can than not at all! Mulching with compost mixed with fine wood chips (not bark) will conserve water and suppress weeds. Remember too that while most plants and lawns need about an inch of water a week, a new tree or rosebush needs about 5 gallons of water per week, and new perennials need at least a gallon each week.

Properly used, overhead oscillating sprinklers can maintain moisture levels in garden beds and lawns, but it's important to pay attention. Most sprinklers deliver water unevenly, especially if (or when) the delivery holes get plugged. After watering, check for sodden areas (usually middle sections) and dryer areas (particularly edges). Adjust timing and positioning so those dry areas overlap and midsections don't get more than they need. To test the water delivery rate, put a short empty can (tuna or pet food) in each section and measure how much water is there every 15 minutes. Once you know the rate, you can adjust the timing to deliver about an inch of water each week. Mark those sprinkler positions so you can find them easily.

Birds and children love sprinklers, but sprinklers can lose water to evaporation and wind can blow the water everywhere. Well set up drip irrigation systems and those with multiple spray heads can get the right amount of water to each plant, though they may need adjustment as plants grow larger. Drip systems work best in row-style vegetable beds and linear ornamental plantings. Soaker hose systems also keep foliage dry and work well in billowing borders, since water reaches plant roots no matter how big a plant gets.

Lawns are famous water hogs, but watering right use less water, promotes deep roots, and reduces diseases. Overwatering creates shallow, weak root systems, so set lawn irrigation to deliver half an inch of water twice a week instead of daily. To increase disease resistance, feed the soil to encourage deep roots. Instead of toxic weed-and-feed products, spread corn gluten in spring and fall and switch to high mowing, leaving nitrogen-rich clippings in place. To eliminate thatch build up, red thread, and other fungal issues, rake in half an inch of compost twice a year. It may take a season or to to make the transition but your lawn will be far healthier.

Contact Ann Lovejoy at 413 Madrona Way NE, Bainbridge Island, WA 98110 or visit Ann's blog at http://www.loghouseplants.com/blogs/greengardening/ and leave a question/comment.